One of the most scenic itineraries in Europe is the Rhone Valley, which follows the contours created by France’s second-longest river. Originating at the Rhone Glacier in the Swiss canton of Valais in the Alps, the 504-mile Rhone River initially flows northwest to Lake Geneva. Exiting the lake at the southwest, it flows into France and joins with the Saone River near the city of Lyon. It then takes a southern course toward the Mediterranean Sea. At the city of Arles in the province of Provence, it branches into the Little Rhone and the Great Rhone, creating the Camargue delta region.
The Rhone River is distinct from the Rhine, which originates in Switzerland and runs through Liechtenstein, Austria, Germany, and France on its 765-mile journey northwest to Holland and the Atlantic Ocean. For the first leg of its journey, the Rhone is truly Alpine, as it flows through a massive trench that has cut between two of the highest ranges of the Alps.
The first village the river encounters is Oberwald, and it passes through the ancient burg of St. Maurice shortly before it exits the canton of Valais. Guarding the dramatic entrance of the Upper Rhone Valley, the town is situated on a relatively flat stretch of land between the river and rock face. It originally served as a Roman customs station and contains a castle and a historic abbey.
The town gained religious significance in the 4th century BCE when the martyred saint Maurice’s relics were transferred there. Exiting the town, the Rhone immediately flows through a narrow natural gateway strongly fortified over the centuries and drops into the wide alluvial plain that houses Lake Geneva.
Upon exiting Lake Geneva, the Rhone’s waters turn blue and slow-moving, though it speeds up as torrents from the Mont Blanc range join it. It runs through several narrow gorges along the southern spur of the Jura mountains before traveling freely westward through France to Lyon. Here, the Rhone Valley, one of Southeast France’s premier wine-growing regions, commences, with the river running 150 miles from Lyon to the Bouches-du-Rhone or the delta along the Mediterranean coast.
Fed by the water provided by the Rhone River, the valley has two distinct northern and southern viticultural sections. They are separated by a 25-mile stretch between Valance and Montelimar, where grapes are rarely grown. The smaller north section, known for appellations such as Cote Rotie and Hermitage, almost exclusively produces Syrah for red wines and Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier for whites.
The southern region, which is considered less prestigious, accounts for 95 percent of the valley’s wine production and boasts a much wider array of wine varietals. It includes the renowned Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation and is celebrated for its robust red and white wine blends.
This section of the Rhone has historical importance, as it connected traders in the central and eastern sections of Gaul, an important Roman province, with the Mediterranean. Goods were hauled by barge from Mediterranean ports up the river in a journey that took around three weeks. From medieval times to the 19th century, passengers would travel by “coches d’eau,” or water barges drawn by horses walking along the banks. Following World War II, 10 canal locks were constructed, and diesel-powered motor barges were introduced, making transportation much more efficient.
A UNESCO World Heritage site, Lyon is the third largest city in France and combines a lively gastronomic culture centered on local bistros and Beaujolais wine production.
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